Sunday, March 4, 2012

Graphite Bottom

After reading lots of posts on the CLC forum, I decided to apply a graphite/epoxy mix on the bottom. The reason is three-fold. First, apparently it makes the bottom very slick so that when you paddle over rocks or drag your boat over the reef, it doesn't scratch nearly as readily as it would if it had a bright finish (or maybe it just doesn't hurt your feelings as much). Second, it takes care of the UV problem that unfinished epoxy suffers. Third, I think it's going to look good.

So first, I masked a line just above the chines and put two more coats of unthickened epoxy along the sides. This was enough to fill the weave of the cloth to an acceptably smooth finish. I should say I don't plan on spending much time sanding this thing and varnishing it shiny like a Steinway Piano - I plan on paddling it around instead, so perhaps my acceptable level of smooth wouldn't be smooth enough for the next guy. If so, my advice to the next guy would be 'build your own damn boat.' Still, it's pretty smooth.

I scratched my head for a little while trying to figure out a way to apply the masking tape in a straight line and even found myself at the building supply store looking at laser levels, but then caught a glimpse of myself being absurd enough to actually think about buying a laser level just to put a straight line down my hull and I snapped out of it. I'm a cheap bastard. Instead, I applied it by eye. My reasoning was that if I can get it straight enough not to bother me when I'm actually concentrating on how straight it is, it probably won't bother me later when I've forgotten all about it and am just busy paddling around. And if it bothers you, well, build your own damn boat.

I mixed about 3+ ounces of graphite powder (about $10 for a pound at a local art supply store) with 9 ounces of epoxy to make a slightly thickened and very black mixture and rolled it on in a thin layer with a foam roller. (I measured the graphite by volume fairly roughly using a 3 oz Dixie cup). The second graphite layer only required 6 ounces of epoxy, as did the third. Next I'll remove the masking tape and hopefully will be rewarded with a two-tone hull with a nice clean line. And if it ain't straight enough for you, well.. you won't be able to see it from your house anyway.

5 comments:

  1. nice work! Maybe I should do a this veil of class with carbon graphite coating over the Kevlar sheathing on the cat,

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  2. Nice post, I am planning on putting a graphite and silica coating on my latest kayak. Im looking for that hard and slick surface I hear so much about.

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    1. Yes, i recommend it! I've dragged this boat up and down the sand to the beach many times by now, and have been clumsy in the parking lot more than once subjecting the hull to the insults of pavement and have been surprised at how the surface holds up. It ain't shiny, but it seems to be a damn serviceable kayak coating. And that one $10 container of graphite is enough for many boats.

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  3. I covered a line simply over the chines and put two more layers of unthickened epoxy at the edges. This was sufficient to fill the weave of the material to an acceptably smooth completion. I ought to say I don't anticipate investing much energy sanding this thing and varnishing it glossy like a Steinway Piano - I anticipate paddling it around rather, so maybe my satisfactory level of smooth wouldn't be sufficiently smooth for the following gentleman. Assuming this is the case, my recommendation to the following fellow would be 'assemble your own damn watercraft.' Still, it's really smooth as well. Thanks
    Sandra


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